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DSC Power Series 1616, 1832, and 1864 Basic Wiring

DSC Power Series 1616, 1832, and 1864 Basic Wiring

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Wiring an alarm system can seem intimidating if you've never done it before, but its really quite simple and is all low voltage. In the video below we show you the basics of wiring a DSC alarm system with typical devices used on any installtion.


Hi, this is Ryan with here to tell you about how to hook up and program your DSC alarm system. I'm gonna walk through the basic steps of opening up the package, mounting your hardware, what wires to put where, and then in the next video, we will actually program the alarm system. So let's go to my desk and let's hook up an alarm system.

Okay, now we're at my setup table, and I've got my DSC kit, I've got the motion sensor, I've got a door contact, and what I am gonna do is open up the kit, which contains my keypad, another motion sensor, and a few other items. And we're going to basically, now, wire this system up. Okay, now I've taken everything out of the box. And when you open up your kit, you got a door, excuse my arm there, and you're gonna pull out your different items. You got the RJ31 jack that we don't really use a whole lot unless you're really interested in line seizure. You got your keypad, you got an indoor siren, wireless key fob, paperwork, and then you've got your board.

Whether you are using a 1616, 1832, or 1864, your board and the required components will be right inside this container right here. You open it up, you want to take out your board, remove the paperwork from inside the cabinet. Okay, your green circuit board goes right inside the green cabinet just like so. You'll also receive a little bag that will have your battery things, resistors. Okay, now you've got everything taken out of the box. I've got my green circuit board mounted, and what we got to do now is wire everything up. I don't know if it's an OCD thing or whatnot, but what I always do is, when I got everything out of the package, I take the pieces...this here connects to your backup battery. It may look like this or it may just have two pieces, depending on what system you have.

Now I just go ahead and connect this next to the keybus, now I just tuck it back in the back, and I'm done with it, so that way I don't have to worry about that backup battery wire just hanging around somewhere. Next is you need to connect your AC wire. Make sure nothing is plugged in, do not plug in your transformer in or anything like that. You need two wires, right there. And this is coming, this is already ran, and that's inside your panel, all right? You put the two wires into the terminals that is marked AC-AC, and we'll do that like so. And then we'll tighten down the screws. It's non-polarity, so don't worry, and this is the same for the 1616, the 1832, or 1864. It's non-polarity, just make sure it's not plugged in, so that way you're not blowing transformers, you're not blowing the keybus or any keypads or anything like that. So that wire is ran.

The next wire that is ran is gonna be for the keypad, all right? So I'll take my keypad wire, it's now inside the box, and the keypads will go into the terminals, as I indicated, red, black, yellow, green. So we're gonna make sure our wires are in somewhat of an order to go into those, red, black, yellow, and green. Pretty simple. On the back of the keypad, you'll see here in a few that it's also labeled red, black, yellow, green.

So it's kinda hard to mess up, and you just put them into the terminals. Then match the color code and tighten it up. If you've got multiple keypads, you can put multiple wires underneath these terminals. So it's okay to have two or three, four wires. So, we got our power, which is an AC and AC, our keypads, which are in red, black, yellow, green. I've got a wire that is also ran, and it is ran for a front door, which is going to be our zone number one. It is a 22-gauge 4-conductor wire that was ran, however, front doors only need 2 wires. So what we will actually do is fold back the red and the black, and not use those.

I use 22-4 just for the simple fact it gets me by with about everything I need to wire and I don't have to buy different gauges of wire. The zones, zone one is Z1 and COM, zone two would be Z2 and COM, zone three will be Z3 and COM. One wire in each terminal. So since my front door is zone one, I am going to put it under Z1 and COM, it's non-polarity. So I'll just stick it in, tighten it up. And I will show you the other end of these wires after I go through this basic part right here. So now we've got zone one wired.

My zone two is gonna be a motion detector. A motion detector does require four wires, so I've got my four wires, and a motion detector requires power. So the red and black will need to go to the aux plus and aux minus, so let's go ahead and do the aux plus and aux minus. Red goes to aux plus, black to aux minus. You tighten those down, they are in there. And then this zone is gonna be zone two, so it's gonna go to a COM and Z2. And then this case, on this panel, zone two shares a COM with zone one. So both your zone one and zone two COM wires will be in the same terminal. That is okay, COM is just almost like a negative. And then I'll put the other wire in zone two.

For me, I don't know if it's an OCD thing or not, I like to keep my wires consistent. So usually the zone terminals I use green and all the COMs I use yellow. Although it's non-polarity, it doesn't matter to me. I try to, you know, somewhat try to keep things neat. So now I've got the wires ran for a front door and a motion. You'd continue on back doors, windows, etc., the same way, zone and a COM, and go from there. Now, on the other end, is the power stuff. Here's the other end of my AC wire. I've got a couple of clips on there, which makes a lot easier. And I've got my power transformer, 1640. Some of them look different, some only have the two prongs, some have the ground prong. In this case, I use the ground prong. You just use AC and AC. You don't have to worry about the ground unless you're grounding it out.

So we will use the AC and AC terminals. And as indicated before, it's non-polarity so it doesn't matter which wire goes where. I will not plug that in yet. We had a zone one, which was a front door. So now if we go to our front door and the wires, now we've got everything here on the short wire for video purposes only. I've got my two zone wires, my green and yellow.

This is a standard mini surface mount door contact. You got two screws and a magnet. This terminal here, your wire basically goes into these two terminals, and then you tighten them down with a screw. I'm not sure if they are out already or not, so I'm going to screw 'em out just a tad. Non-polarity, so it doesn't matter which one goes in which hole. And they are in, and then you just tighten them down. I will say it's a lot easier when they are mounted on a wall,to work with, rather than in your hand. And that's all it takes to wire up a front door. So I'll set that there.

Next is the motion detector. You open up the motion, get it out of the box, all right? Unscrew, because you got to take the screw all the way out. Screw out. You open it up, a lot cool looking things inside. If you look, real close, you got more terminals, and there's even some labels on those. You'll see, although it's upside down, 12V, 12 minus, obviously that's gonna be your power. Also on a motion detector, you will use NC, which is normally closed, and your common. Those will be for your zones.

So I've got my motion wires ran. And what I'm gonna do is wire it up. Make sure these positives and negatives are opened for my wires. That's for my NC and C. Sorry if I am blinding you, guys. Now, I'm not gonna punch holes into this motion, in the back of it, because this is just for video. But, like I said, I'm gonna go ahead and wire this up, and be back with you guys in a second. Your 12-volt positive will get the red wire, your 12-volt negative will get the black wire, and then your NC and common will you the green and the yellow. It doesn't matter which one goes where.

Okay, the motion is now wired. I've got my powers in and I've got my normally closed and common wire, and that's that. Now the next part is going to be the keypad. Keypad, whether you're using a LED or a LCD, will usually be wired down the same way. You just open up the keypad. You got the green boards and you got your terminals right up here. And if you can look and see, you got R for red, B for black, yellow is Y, and green is G. Some keypads, you can wire a hardwired zone to the keypad, takes a little bit additional programming, but you can wire a zone into this keypad and make it your keypad a hardwired zone for some devices.

My keypad wire has been ran. Now we bring the wire in between the back slot. And what I will actually do is then place the wires, red, black, yellow, green, into the proper slots as they are labeled on the keypad. I use my wires here for different keypads, for different systems, and that is why they are so out of whack.

For some reason, I always try to put them in at the same time. Red, black, yellow, green. Red, black, yellow, green.

All right, red, black, yellow, green. Red, black, yellow, green. And then you just put the keypad back in place. For demonstration purposes, I'm not gonna hook the siren up to this. Sirens will go into the bell plus, bell minus, depending on the type of siren you use. Some sirens do have multiple wires. You will use a negative and then you will only use one of the positive wires. Some have red and yellow and white. Most common, white is negative, your red and yellow would indicate a steady sound or a yelp sound. You just choose one of the wires, do not use both. So now the system is wired, my keypad is wired, my front door is wired, my motion detector is wired both at the panel and at the devices themselves, the next part is to power up the system.

So we're going to go ahead and power up the system. Okay? And now we are powering up the system, and the next thing to do is to program it, and that will be the next video.