Installing and Programming the COSMOD2W and COSMOD4W on the IQ Pro

Hey, guys. Hayden here again from Alarm System store. And today we're going to be hooking up a COSMOD module and a sensor to the IQ Pro system. So the way I'm going to do this video is first off, I'm going to show you how to wire the modules to the system, the IQ Pro. And then from there, I will show you how to wire the module to the 4-wire detectors. And I'll also show you guys how to wire it to two wire detectors. And then from there I'll do the programming in the panel. It's all going to be below, so you guys can check that out. 

But first, let's just dive right into the wiring from the module to the system. So for this, you are going to need six total wires minimum. You're going to need two wires for power, two for the smoke zone and then two for the CO zone. So a total of six, like I just said. And you know what I typically use is just 22-gauge 4-conductor wire. And you can just split this into a smoke and CO pair and then two additional wires, whether it's 4-wire, 2-wire, whatever you want to use, for the power.

So here, first off, on the module itself, I'm going to show you guys how to connect the smoke zone and the Co zone. Here, you'll see a power in positive and a power in negative. And then you'll see smoke IDC positive and smoke IDC negative. So the smoke zone is that IDC set of terminals. So we're going to take our two wires for the smoke zone. And we're going to connect those to the terminals here. And for the CO zone, we have a similar set of terminals. It says CO IDC positive and CO IDC negative. So we'll take our two wires for the CO zone. And those are going to connect to those two terminals. Now on the other end, we are going to have basically two zones here. Our red and black is our smoke zone. And the yellow and green is our Co zone. So all you have to do on the system is just select which zones you're going to be using for the COSMOD. So for us I don't have anything else hooked up. So we're just going to use zones one and two. One is going to be the smoke zone. And two is going to be the CO zone. 

So you'll take your positive from the smoke zone. Connect it to zone one. The black is going to go to the common zone one and zone two share. The green from our CO zone is also going to share that common, so we can go ahead and put that in there. And then the yellow which is our CO zone positive, is going to go to our zone two terminal. Now that is all the zone wiring you have to do for the module. For power, however we need two additional wires as I mentioned. So we're going to take this set of wire here. You can just fold back the extra wires if you don't need them on a 4-wire pair. And we're just going to use red and black, as that is normally positive and negative.

So those are going to go in the power in positive and the power in negative terminals here. Now this module actually it kind of functions like a 4-wire smoke detector. So a 4-wire smoke has two wires for power. And two for the zone. This just has an extra zone because it's got the CO zone. But what you need when you're working with either the COSMOD or 4-wire smoke detectors is resettable power. And the way you get that on the IQ Pro is by using PGM2. Technically, you could use any PGM you want for this; however, PGM2 has the most output, and that is what works best for smoke devices or life-saving devices that need reset power. So on the system, we're going to take our negative wire. And this is a bit confusing to some, but the PGMs on IQ pros are negative switching outputs. So you use the negative wire and connect that to the terminal itself. The positive wire. Your red wire here is going to go to AUX2+, auxiliary two plus. So let me plug that in real quick. And this is what you're wiring from the system to the cosmos is going to look like. So if you want a close-up look that up. So you guys can see we have our two power wires there at the top we have our smoke zone and our CO zone. On the system. And this one's a little bit harder to show. I'll try and zoom in. But basically as you can see the red is AUX2+ the negative, the black, is on PGM2. We have our two zones set up right here. Zone one is the smoke. Zone two is the CO okay. So that is going to be the same regardless of whether you're using a 2-wire or 4-wire cosmos. So always do that connection first. And then from there, you can worry about the detectors themselves.

All right. So now that we have our module wired to the panel, we're going to work on the wiring from the module to the detectors. And so on the module itself you'll see they're already here. But at the top on the right side you're going to see you will smoke EOL, smoke EOL, CO EOL, CO EOL. So whenever you're using one of these modules, you need to have two resistors that are the value of the zone resistance for your panel. So for example, the IQ Pro uses 5.6 K resistors whenever you're setting up end-of-line resistors. That applies to this module as well. So you'll have two of these 5.6 K resistors. And you'll just strap them straight across the terminals like that one for the smoke, one for the CO. And now if you had a different system, let's say you had a Honeywell. Honeywell uses 2K resistors for their EOL. So in that case you're going to use 2 2K resistors. You'll set them up exactly like this. They'll just be the 2K resistors instead of the 5.6. So, whatever panel you're working with just make sure you set aside two equal resistors for your COSMOD module. 

Now before we start wiring the detector itself, we have to take our 4-wire pair. But since this is the 4-wire and wire it to the actual module itself. So right below the EOL terminals is an IDC positive, an IDC negative power out positive and power out negative. Now since this is 4-wire, we're going to be taking our red and black. And that is going to go to our power out positive and negative. And then our green and yellow or white and green in my case is going to go to the IDC. Those are, the IDC is essentially the zone wiring for this module. So I'm going to go ahead and do that real quick. All right. So that is what your COSMOD module fully wired up is going to look like. Now I want to cover these two terminals down here at the bottom of this module here. On the left side is a CO trigger in. And on the right side is a smoke trigger in. So what that is used for is if you have multiple COSMODs that you can trigger each one using some sort of output. Most of the time people use the bell circuit, the siren circuit of their panel. They wire it to, you know, let's say the smoke trigger, so that when the alarm goes off and that siren starts going, if it has a smoke detector, it will trigger this device as well, so that your smokes will all go off at the same time.

Now one thing to remember, however, is these modules are designed to have all of their detectors chained off of them. So whenever you're you're setting this up or planning it out, plan to chain your smokes from the module to each detector as you go. And if you do that for one, you don't need additional, modules too, like a reversing relay or anything, because the COSMODs actually has one of those built in. It will automatically, when one of these detectors goes off, trigger all the rest of the detectors on that chain. These triggers down here, the CO and smoke trigger in those are for in the event that you have, you know, like a COSMOD per floor of your house. That requires quite a bit of extra setup, a little bit of extra planning, but it is possible to do that. I'm not going to cover how those how to use those in this video. We're just kind of covering the basics. Maybe I'll do one later, but I digress. 

Anyway, moving on from there. This is the entire COSMOD4W wired up. So the detector itself is going to have a total of five terminals here. So on the left side you'll have two positive terminals. You'll have a negative down here. And then on this side you'll have the they actually aren't labeled on the the base plate itself. But these are basically your zone terminals on the 4-wire model. Now if you had a 2-wire model, you're basically only going to get these three terminals on the left because that's all you need for 2-wire smokes. You just need basically your power wiring, because 2-wire detectors send both power and data across the same two wires. So one thing that confuses people is the two positive terminals here. So the way those work, lots of smokes have these. All the system sensor smokes do. Anyway, one of these positives is a power in positive and the other positive is a power out positive. So to clarify that, what that means is your power is going to come from the module. So going to the detector we need to use the power in positive the negative. And then the two zone terminals going from this detector to the next detector you're going to use the positive power out the negative. And then the two zone terminals. So when you're wiring these up make sure you keep it straight or keep your wiring straight so that you know which is the power in from the previous device and which is power out going to the next device. That's the hardest part about these smokes. If you got that down, then you are good to go now. 

So I'm going to go ahead and wire this up. To clarify, this first terminal up top here is the power in. This is positive out. And then there's your negative. So from the COSMOD on to the detector I'm going to use the power in terminal the negative and then the two zone terminals. So I'm going to wire that up real quick. And now one thing I want to clarify on the zone wiring here. These are not polarity sensitive. So you can wire whichever one you want. I always do white or yellow on top and green on bottom, but that's just a personal preference. It doesn't really matter. So this is what your first detector is going to look like. Now if you are going to chain this to another detector you're going to take the red wire going from this detector to the next one. It's going to connect to the power out terminal. These three will always stay the same though. So this is what alternates. These are always the same.

Now when you get to the last detector in your chain this resistor right here comes with the COSMOD itself. I believe this is a 3.7 K resistor, but it's very obvious which one it is because it has these plastic sleeves on it and it's got the terminals, the spade terminals there. So it's very easy to pick it out. So what we're going to do for the 4-wire model is we're going to take the resistor and strap it across the two zone terminals here. So your yellow and green wires. So you just kind of set it in there. Loosen it up a little bit, slide it in and tighten it. Like that. I think I got the speed terminal on top there. But that doesn't really matter as long as it's making good solid metal to metal contact. We are good to go. So this is what the last detector in your chain is going to look like. You don't have your power in negative your two zone terminals with the yellow and green wires. And then this resistor strapped across there. Sorry if I'm taking a long time to explain this. This is one of the most confusing setups for people. So I just wanted to get as much clarification and as I can. You can speed up the video if you wish. 

So this is what your last smoke is going to look like. And then from there you're good. You can go program the panel, which we will cover here shortly. And now I want to go over if this was a 2-wire module. All right guys, I have swapped over to a 2-wire COSMOD and COSMO sensor. So we're going to basically go over that, to show the wiring for your sensors on that. As you can see, the the entire left side setup is exactly the same. The only difference with a 2-wire cosmos is it does have this maintenance positive and negative set of terminals here. That is basically that maintenance zone I mentioned. And it's explained in the manual what it does, but that is there. And on the right side, basically everything's the same as the 4-wire model, except for down here instead of being a power out positive and negative set of terminals. This is the style D positive and negative. I've never used that myself, so I can't really explain it, but essentially you can ignore those for a standard cosmos setup. You're just going to be using the IDC positive and IDC negative set of terminals there. So when you're ready, grab your wire. You're only gonna need two wires so you can just pull back the yellow and green or white and green and you're just going to connect the red to the IDC positive and then the black to the IDC negative.

Now for the detector itself. When we open this up, you guys will see that this only has three total terminals, as I mentioned earlier. So those two that would normally be over here for the 4-wire style are just removed completely. You do still have three total terminals though, which can be confusing. But basically if you watched the 4-wire tutorial, same thing applies. This has two positive terminals. So you're going to have positive power in positive power out. And then you're going to have a negative. So whenever you are connecting multiple of these detectors in a chain, which is how they are designed to be used, you will basically have power in from the previous device to the first positive here, and then power out to the next device is going to use the second positive there. The negative will be carried the same across all detectors. So. So this is what your detector wiring should look like when you get to your first detector. If you are chaining like I mentioned, just make sure you alternate the positive terminals. They're positive in and positive out. 

However, whenever you get to the last detector on your chain, you are going to need this resistor. Do not recall if I talked about this prior to the 4-wire install instructions, so I'll touch on it again. This is a 3.7 K resistor that comes with the COSMODs themselves. This is very easy to pick out because it has these plastic sleeves here along with the spade terminals. So you'll always know which one is the correct one. But you will need to strap this across the power out and the negative terminals on the last COSMO in your chain. So I'll go ahead and do that real quick. The last 2-wire Cosmo you have is going to look like this. You'll have positive power in from the previous device. Your negative going to the negative terminal, and then you'll have the resistor strapped across positive out and the negative there. So with that covered I'll go ahead and jump back over and then we can start on the programming.

I got the app pulled up and the IQ Pro is ready to go. Basically, there are only a couple of things we have to set up. As I mentioned. We're going to be setting up two zones, a smoke zone, a CO zone. And then we have to set up the PGM, which is PGM2. So I'll show you guys how to do that real quick. The first thing we're going to do is set up the zones. So, depending on how you have your IQ Pro set up already, you may have zones available that you can just dedicate to this, this system though, however, I've deleted all the zones off of so that we're going to be adding them one by one. So to do that, you click on the core bus module under the security sensor section. So if you didn't see that on the left here click config, click installation devices, security sensors. Or neat little trick for those that don't know, on the main page there where it says CORBUS, if you click the arrow, it takes you right to the security sensors page. So a little shortcut. Anyway, moving on to adding zones.

Click on the CORBUS module there at the top. And that should always be the first thing listed on your IQ Pro. At the bottom right you'll see a plus. Click on that. And that is how you add hardwired zones. So right now by deleting them I've basically removed all the zones from the IQ Pro. We have to add them back. We're going to be adding the smoke and the CO zone. So and hard wired zone down here at the very bottom. Check that first so that you know where you're adding the sensor. It says hardwire input One, that is talking about the zone. So when it says input on an IQ Pro it's referencing the zone input. So for input one that is our smoke. So make sure that says one there or whatever zone you're using. Go to the top, sensor type. We're going to select smoke detector. We do have to plug in a name. So I'm just going to put Cosmo. You can name yours whatever you would like. Under sensor group. That's always going to be the same for smoke and heat detectors.

So it'll say 26 dash smoke dash heat. That's good. Under sensor input always make sure end of line is selected. So it should be by default. But if needed select End of Line and then click save. So now we have added our smoke zone. We're going to do the same thing again. But this time we're going to add the CO zone. So under sensor types select CO detector put COSMO for the name. The sensor group is always going to be 30 for CO. So leave that as is. Make sure the sensor input says End of Line, and then hard-wired input down here at the bottom. Make sure that says the zone that you're you're trying to add this to, this is 2 for us. So it is good. Invalid value. Oh, I can't have the same name. Okay. So, what we're going to do is just do COSMO CO, and it may be better to identify them a little bit better. So when you're setting up the smoke, you might want to put COSMO smoke. COSMO CO. All right, so right off the bat, you're going to have troubles on these zones. Basically, the module isn't powered yet, so it's going to give you these little red symbols next to, your zones, but that is okay. We're about to go set up the power, and then we'll perform a reset, which is going to basically clear any troubles with the setup. So once that's done, all you got to do is back out. 

Now, when deciding how to set up your PGM, you have two options. You can either set it up so that the PGM automatically resets whenever you disarm the system, or you can set it up so that you have to trigger the reset. And generally, I recommend the disarm setup for anybody that's using all IQ keypads, unlike the IQ remote, if you are using DSC keypads, however, I recommend using the trigger where you actually manually reset it because all DSC keypads. I have one over here. I'm sorry. I'm going to touch screen, but all DSC keypads come with a function key that's already set up to reset PGM two. So we wouldn't have to do anything additional. And we don't have to disarm the system every time we want to reset them. So to set that up we're going to set up command right here. So whenever you click the plus click command. And then under the rules settings you do have to select a name. So I'm just going to put Cosmo reset. If I can type. Save. 

And then under Rule settings you select Command Output one and you're going to change that to Command output two. Command output two is the trigger for PGM2. That is going to cause it to reset. Now under output type we have to set this to inverted. Basically a normal PGM is off until it is triggered. And when you trigger it, it turns on for a specified amount of time or it latches on. When we set this to inverted it provides power at all times. And then whenever we trigger it, it turns off power for a certain amount of time. So make sure that it is set to inverted and then under action. This is basically how long it is going to reset. So make sure that that does not stay on latching because if it's latched it's just going to turn the smoke off and you'll never get power back until you go in and reprogram.

Select timer here and leave the time units as seconds. Now you can leave it exactly as is. It presets it to five seconds, which is perfectly viable for resetting smoke detectors or cosmos. But generally I change mine to 2 to 3 seconds just because it doesn't take that long. It just turns off power and turns it back on. Two seconds is plenty enough time for the actual detectors to reset, so this is what it will look like. COSMO reset is the name command output two as the command output, type is inverted, action is timer for two seconds. Once you click save, it is going to power on the PGM, which powers on the COSMOD. So as you can see here, my power LED is now blinking, and it says right next to it blink is normal, so we are good. So our wiring is correct. Everything with the detector is fine. We can look at the detector itself as well to make sure it is getting power to the, green LED here should be lighting up. Okay. It's still doing its reboot phase. So whenever these first get power, one thing you might notice is all the LEDs will go off at the same time.

They flash a few times together. So just give it a few minutes. When it boot up, let it do its thing. Once it gets fully booted up, then you should only have the green light flashing once every five seconds, I believe it is so after you set your PGM and your zones before you back out of programming, go through, check everything. Check your module. Make sure you have the blink for the the power here at the top. Make sure the yellow LED, which is the second one, is off. If that is on the yellow LED then there is a wire fault. If any of your detectors are not flashing as they should, or if you have it, the yellow wire fault LED on, you need to power down the panel. Go through, double check all the wiring, make sure that there's no loose wires, broken wires, and make sure that, 3.7 K resistor is on the detector as it should be. So once that is done, you'll basically have exactly what I have here. 

There's one other thing I want to clarify when using either a 4-wire or 2-wire COSMO, if you're using a 4-wire smoke of any kind, you have to use what's called an End of line relay that monitors the power. This module itself is fully capable of monitoring the zone wiring for a 4-wire setup. However, it cannot monitor power. So if I cut the power wire to this detector, you won't get a wire fault LED on the module like you should unless you have that EOLR module. So that end-of-line relay. So if you were using the 4-wire type for whatever reason, make sure you also get an EOL relay for each COSMOD that you have. Now, if you're using the 2-wire style, you do not need that because both the power and the zone signal is transmitted across the same two wires. So if you lose power, you're also going to lose your your zone EOL, your resistance, the whole bit. So that is another benefit to using the 2-wire style. Anyway, that is the full setup for COSMOs on an IQ Pro system.

And as I mentioned, this basically applies to really any system and the wiring from the module to the, the system is always going to be the same. You're going to have those two zones smoke and see ozone, and then you're going to need resettable power. So depending on what your system is, the resettable power may be different. You might have PGMs. You might have relays that you have to use. Whatever the case is, though, make sure you set those up so that you have resettable power so that you can reset your smoke detectors. 

Now, real quick, I wanted to show how you would reset these if you were using a DSC keypad. So on the touch screen here, we have a command output 2 button. It just says output two. But that's what it means. That button is going to reset the smokes. So if I click that the LED goes off for a minute and then it comes back blinking. So what that did is it just reset the smoke chain. So if any of your smokes had gone off, they would reset as well.

On the button-style DSC keypads, there is going to be a reset function key on the right side. There's a list of function keys there, and one of them says reset. Hold that down for a few seconds and it will reset your smoke chain or the other option is if you want to use the button style, either on the touch screen or the regular keypads, you can enter *72 to perform the reset, so you can see it says output activated. When I type that in, they did the exact same thing as me pressing the output two button here. Basically, it just triggers PGM2, and the way we set it up, it resets the COSMOD. 

And so I think that's everything in terms of setting up a normal COSMOD setup. Like I said, one thing you guys need to keep in mind is like, there's no reason, in my opinion, to ever use the 4-wire style. Literally, it just costs you more money because you have to get that EOLR module and the 4-wire style is more expensive than the 2-wire style. Now, if there's a reason for the 4-wire cosmos out there and one of you knows, please tell me. Like, put it in the comments below. I would be happy to learn why there is a 4-wire style of these. However, in my opinion, which is, pretty experienced, I feel like there's no reason to use the 4-wire so save yourself a little bit of money. Use 2-wire. You'll have everything built into the module on the sensors, and it's it's less work. So that just makes sense to me. So anyway, if you guys have any questions, by all means leave them down in the comments below. If you can, like and subscribe. Hopefully, this was helpful to somebody that was setting this up. Anyway, I will catch you guys on the next one.