How to Install Power Supply Modules on the IQ Pro

Hey, guys. Hayden here again from Alarm System Store. And today we're going to be talking about the power supply modules that you can use with the IQ Pro alarm system. So as I've mentioned previously, the IQ Pro uses DSC NEO modules. So the two power supply options you have, if you want them to be like integrated into the system, are the HSM2204 and the HSM2300. They are pretty easy to tell apart just from look, because the 2204 has a longer set of terminals here, and we'll go over why that is here shortly. But essentially, today we're going to be installing the 2204. I'm not going to install the 2300 because you do the same thing on both. This one just has extra terminals. So that way I can show you guys what those are for. And I'm just going to basically outline the difference between these modules. 

So first off, this video is chaptered. So if you just need to see how to hook it up or how to enroll it into the system, blah blah blah. You can find that down below. However, real quick, I'm going to go over the difference between the 2204 and 2300. So both of these modules offer up to an amp of additional power for your alarm system. Now, to clarify, what that means is, they don't add an amp of power to the available power of your system. They basically have their own separate amps worth of power supply. So anytime you're hooking one of these up, you do need to plan to have all the wiring for the devices that will be powered by your power supply, be run to the location of the power supply. On that note, it generally is recommended you use an additional cabinet for a power supply module. Mainly because when you're using the IQ Pro, especially in this plastic cabinet, there is no space for it in here. This has spaces for a few zone expanders. However, there is no space big enough for the power supply. The metal cabinet does technically have enough space in it. However, I don't have one of those handy, so I couldn't tell you exactly where it would mount by default. You might have to drill holes to make that work. However, there is the PC5003C extra cabinet. It's a 12x12 DSC cabinet we carry on our website. You can get one of those. Stick that in there. It's already got proper mounting holes, the whole bit. So you're good to go. 

Anyway, back to what I was saying about the amount of power supplied by these modules. If you're unfamiliar with power draw on alarm systems, the main system always comes with a max limit of power that it can output. And the IQ Pro is very similar to the DSC neo in the sense that it has 700mA of power it can supply to devices, whether that's keypads, modules, sensors, you know, whatever the case might be, that 700, once you tap it out, that's it. It can't do any more. Any extra devices will just not be powered. So that's where these power supplies come in. The power supply, as I mentioned, offers one amp of additional power output. But that output comes from this direct module, though. So like I was saying, any devices like let's say I had to run a keypad off of this, I would need to make sure the wiring for the keypad is located at the power supply rather than at the system. That way, there is a specific terminal on here you use whenever you're powering a device off of this power supply. And it is the AUX+ terminal right here. 

So if you're familiar enough with the IQ Pro to know what a CORBUS is, the red, black, yellow, and green right there are the CORBUS terminals that go back to the main system. And normally, you would connect keypads, modules, things like that to the red terminal of your CORBUS for power. However, on these modules, you actually use the AUX+ terminal to pull power from this module. If you connected something to the red, black, yellow, and green as normal on here, it's just going to continue trying to pull power from the main system. So plan your wiring around that if possible. And we do have power supply calculators on our website you can use to kind of judge that, depending on what you're adding. So utilize that resource. It's not perfect. It gives an estimate, but it works very well. 

Anyway, moving on. The only major difference between these two modules is that, as I mentioned, the 2204 has the expanded terminal set here. And that is because this module is actually a power supply and a high-current output module. And what that means is it basically comes with four PGMs. So on your main board, you'll have four PGMs by default on the IQ Pro. However, on here, these O terminals one through four are additional PGMs that you can use. Now they are high current outputs, which means they all have 500 or more milliamp output. That is a lot more than what you get on any of the PGMs on the main board. So, if you have a higher current device that you are trying to power using a PGM, it is generally best to use one of these 2204s. In addition to that, O1 on the 2204 is actually designed to be a secondary bell circuit, which means it can be supervised. And what supervision means is basically, you know, if something's disconnected, it'll give you a trouble. So essentially, what that boils down to is, O1 on this device always has to see some resistance. It only needs to see about 1000Ω of resistance, which is relatively small considering, you know, the resistors that come with this system. However, without that 1K resistor, you will get a trouble on O1.
 
So moving on. I'll go ahead and talk about how these would be installed. So I'm going to get this one out of here. One of the most important things to remember when purchasing one of these, though, is that you need an additional transformer, and you need an additional battery for the power supply. So I have both here. So we're going to go ahead and hook those up. So that would be the first thing you do. And then you can connect it to your system from there. Now, one thing to remember. Once you hook up the AC, don't actually plug it into power. I have a power strip here that I'm using, so I can get away with plugging it in before I actually turn the power strip on. However, in most cases, you can hook up your wiring, hook up the transformer just don't plug it in until you are ready to completely boot up the system and get everything going. So first thing you're going to do, like I said, just take your two AC terminals here. These would be the two on the left, and connect your two wires to the AC terminals. Now, in addition, these come with a battery cable just like what you would get with the system. So go ahead and take that out of the package, and we will hook that up real quick. So, on here, it's got a battery terminal very similar to what you'll find on the IQ Pro or DSC NEO. Just take this translucent-ish connector and connected directly onto there. We'll take our red wire that's going to go to the battery positive. And then your black wire is going to go to the battery negative. Fairly straightforward.

However, next we need to do the CORBUS connection. So we're going to take our 22 gauge 4-wire or if you want to run this to like a secondary building, you can run these quite a good ways away up to 1000ft if you are using 18 gauge wire. If you have a second building that you're trying to put some wired stuff in, you can take some 18 gauge for conductor wire and you can run that without worry of power loss or any issues. So once you're ready, just connect the CORBUS wires here. Red to red, black to black. Yellow or yellow and green to green. And you'll just do the same on both the power supply and the system. All right. So on any of these modules, there is a tamper terminal. Both this one, the 2300, zone expanders, they all have a tamper terminal. And that's designed so that you can set up, like a cabinet tamper for wherever this is located. So if you want to use this for a cabinet tamper, that's more than fine. However, on here, you're going to need to find a Tam terminal, which is right next to the CORBUS on the right, and then the black terminal, which is part of the CORBUS. You're going to take a little jumper wire if you're not using a switch, and you're going to connect the Tam to the black. So now our tamper jumper is in place. So that will clear the tamper trouble that you will get by default on this module. Now one other thing you can do preemptively is take a resistor. It just needs to be 1K or higher. So this is a 5.6 K. It's a little bit high but it serves the same purpose. And we're going to connect that to O1 and AUX+. And all that's going to do is basically tell O1, since it is designed as a secondary bell circuit, that there is resistance and it does not need to throw a fit about it. If we booted this up, it would basically show a bell circuit trouble on our power supply module.
 
So it gets a little, a little stacked here, especially once you start adding devices. But this is what your basic setup for the wiring is going to look like. You're going to have your two AC wires on the left, your resistor connected to AUX+ and O1, your tamper jumper connected from black to Tam. And then you'll have your four CORBUS wires. And then of course your battery connection as well. So bare minimum. This is what you should do when you first connect this module to your system. From there, we can start adding devices if we want to. So for example, if I were going to be connecting a keypad, just as I used in my example earlier, I would take the keypad wiring and make sure it's connected to the keypad as it should be. But we're going to take our black, yellow, and green and those are actually going to connect to the CORBUS terminals. So we'll have black to black, yellow to yellow, green to green. However, with our red wire, instead of connecting it to the red terminal as we normally would, we're going to take the red wire and connect it to the AUX+ terminal. And that is how we draw power from the power supply module rather than the main system.
 
So, although I'm sure this is getting difficult to see, but here's our keypad wire and you can see it's almost exactly the same. We'll just take that red wire and connect it to AUX+. It's very important to remember that. That is the thing that most people get wrong on here just because, you know, generally red is going to go to red. That just makes sense. However, that does that pulls power from the main system rather than the power supply, which is not what we're trying to do. So now that I have everything set up, we can go ahead and power on our system. This is going to take a couple minutes, but I'll go ahead and get the IQ installer app ready, and then I will be right back.
 
All right. So now that we have the panel powered up, I have the IQ installer app connected. I'm going to go ahead and enroll this module. And then I'll show you guys basically how to use the PGMs on here as well. So the first thing we're going to do in the installer app is click config, installation, devices, and then security sensors. So this does enroll basically as a security sensor. So we're going to hit the plus button down here and then just turn on Auto learn. Once the auto alarm starts, it will automatically detect that there is a new connected module. Two actually. So both of them popped up here. That's all you're going to do for the high current output is essentially you can name it if you want to. There's only a couple options you can even change on here. You can change the charging option. So if you need to charge your battery up quickly for a while, you can change that to fast charge. However, for the majority of the time, once your battery is charged, leave that on slow charge. You can change the name. You can change voice prompts, which means the IQ remotes will be able to, announce troubles and things like that that may happen with this device. And the last one is bypass. So if you do have trouble on this device, you can bypass the trouble, which will allow you to arm the system if you need to. Generally, there's not many troubles that can actually happen on this. So it's better to kind of just knock them out if you can. And then I don't worry about, you know, arming the system. Once that's done. Once you're done just click save. It will show that configured. And now we can connect to our keypad as well. 

So I'm not going to really do anything on this. I already went over the options on that in another video. So once we're done, just click Stop Auto Learn and then you can back up just a couple pages. And then you're good to go. Anyway, now that this is connected, basically it's just going to do its job by default. It is just going to power extra devices. Anything you have connected to that AUX+ terminal. So, with that being the case, the only thing you can really program on this is the additional PGMs. So to do that you'll click config and then installation devices and then PGM outputs. So by default, like I said, you have four PGMs on the main board. So if you look through here, we see panel up here at the top. And then we have four programmable outputs right there. That's each of the four PGMs there.
 
Now we have an additional high current output one, which is the name of this device in the system. And we have four additional programmable outputs here. So by default, none of them are set up to really do anything. So the only thing you got to worry about if you're not using them right away, is having that resistor on so that O1 does not show the bell circuit trouble. However, if we did want to set one of these up, you just click on it. It'll show the parent which is this module. So make sure that you're using the right one. If it's easier for you. Name these something unique so that you know, like if you have multiple name it's something unique so that you know which one you're programing at any given time. Once you're ready, you just press Press Plus down there and then you can set up your PGMs. Just as I explained in the previous video, which was solely about how to set up PGMs. So that is basically the ins and outs of using a power supply module on this system. 

Now, just real quick. If we were going to use the 2300 instead of the 2204, everything else, except for what I mentioned regarding the outputs, applies. So same thing. You'll need the two AC wires connected to a transformer. You'll need a battery connected. Your CORBUS will pull power from the main system and then your AUX+ here is your output for all power on this device. It does also have the tamper terminal right there. So you'll need to either use a switch or use a jumper like I did. So there's not a whole lot to these modules. However, there are a couple, you know, major things to remember. Like I said, remember to always use AUX+ when you're pulling power from this device. A lot of times, it's better to use a device like the DT600s that we carry on our site. It's basically a wire splitter. So you take a wire from AUX+, connect it to the top of the DT600, and then you get six terminals off the side that can use that one power terminal, essentially. It is best whenever you're using one of these modules to plan out your wiring very well, and make sure that you have all the necessary accessories to help you organize this in a way that is convenient for you. You can just connect everything up here. The terminals are quite large. You can fit a lot of wires in there, but it does get very messy very quickly, as you can see. 

So that's going to do it for this video. Like I said, there's not a whole lot to these. So if you need to use one, set it up just like that, and you will be good to go. Just remember to organize your wiring in a way that's easy for you to get back to. If you ever have to mess with it. If you guys have any additional questions, leave them down below. If you don't mind, leave a like and subscribe. You can catch all of our IQ Pro videos as they come out. Otherwise, though, that's going to do it for me. So I will catch you guys on the next one.